I know I know it has been awhile. But I only write when I have something to share lol! I was speaking with a client the other day about issues with her skin. As you all know I am not an esthetician nor do I desire too. However, as a formulator those clients that have received a professional diagnosis I can formulate for their skin. With that being said, I started formulating for her and we saw improvement for a while but then every so often she had major facial issues. I asked what hair products did she use. I am sure you all are wondering why I asked such a question but the truth is our haircare affects our faces in ways you couldn't imagine. Like her, I am sure you are surprised and a bit confused so let me explain.
Everything that goes into our hair is not meant for our faces. This is one of the main reasons a lot of African Americans tie their hair up at night. When we sleep we loose about a pint of water meaning our pores are more open to absorb things from our pillows, etc. Our faces are extremely delicate and even the smallest change could yield dramatic reactions. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is commonly used in skincare products such as body wash, cleansers, shampoos and hand washes. It’s the ingredient that gives these products the foamy, bubbly consistency most of us associate with a squeaky clean. There are also other types of sulfates including Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Ammonium Laurel Sulfate (ALS). Sulfates are the ingredients which make a product foam up and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is the most commonly used.
SLS and SLES are produced from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or petroleum oil and you’ll find them widely used in skin and hair care products. A main ingredient in most commercial shampoos is SLS. SLS strips the skin of its natural oils which causes dry skin, irritation and allergic reactions. It can also be very irritating to the eyes. Inflammatory skin reactions include itchy skin and scalp, eczema and dermatitis. SLS stands for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. The best solution is to understand what these ingredients are and look for products which don't use them.
SLS is what’s known as a “surfactant.” This means it lowers the surface tension between Ingredients, which is why it’s used as a cleansing and foaming agent. Most concerns about SLS stem from the fact that it can be found in beauty and self-care products as well as in household cleaners. Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) is a surfactant with a similar chemical formula. However, SLES is milder and less irritating than SLS.
The main thing you need to know about these ingredients is that they can cause irritation and allergic reactions when in contact with skin. Suppose you have sensitive skin to begin with or have long-term exposure to them—you may experience irritation to your eyes, skin, mouth, and lungs and get clogged pores. That, in turn, causes acne, even with the lowest concentration of sulfates in your skincare products. If you’re using cleaning products with SLS and SLES in it, the concentration of the sulfates may be higher to tackle tough stains—which means you’ll have a higher risk of skin irritation through skin contact or inhalation.
Besides being a skin irritant, SLS also dries out your skin. Scientifically speaking, this compound makes your epidermis thinner, increases its turnover rate and water loss, decreases corneocyte (an essential part of your skin barrier!) maturity and size, and speeds up the inflammatory protease activity in your skin. In layman’s terms, SLS tightens and strips your skin of its natural oils and causes it to flake, sparking itchy skin and scalp, eczema, and dermatitis. As for some, continuous exposure to this ingredient can cause more significant reactions like oilier skin to overcompensate for the loss of natural oils and trigger acne flare-ups from excess oil production.
Furthermore, if you’re someone who suffers from whiteheads and blackheads on the regular, it could have been caused by prolonged exposure to SLS. Shampoos containing this compound also contribute to weakening hair follicles and hair loss. Unfortunately, SLS lingers on your hair long after it’s been washed off, decreasing the strength of your follicles over time.
SLES can be perceived as a worse ingredient than SLS. Studies show that SLES increases skin irritation, redness, and damage to the skin barrier. Because of its foaming nature, it can create micro-tears in your skin barrier and allow dirt and bacteria to get trapped underneath it, causing acne (just like SLS). Not only does it cause skin irritation and dryness, but also acts as a potential carcinogen. The main issue with SLES is ethoxylation. During this manufacturing process, SLES may be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, which has the possibility of promoting the formation of cancer. The fact is—SLES has to be vacuum stripped to avoid contamination, but there is no way of knowing whether corporations do this in their manufacturing process. And we’ve got the receipts! A study showed that 1,4-dioxane was found in 82% of the 76 skincare products tested.
Scary right?! What is also crazy is although these are considered natural it proves my point when I say "just because it's natural doesn't mean its safe"! The US bands approximately 50 toxic ingredients while other countries such as the UK bands 1500. This is one of the main reasons that at JAK's we DO NOT use sulfates and all of products are formulated based on European standards. Get to know your products, look up the ingredients and see how they affect you. You could be causing harm to your skin and not even know it. But that's what JAK's is for, to help, educate and to keep your skin safe!!!